Fire Spinning

Fire dancing (also known as, “fire twirling,” “fire spinning,” “fire performance,” or “fire manipulation“) is a group of performance arts or disciplines that involve manipulation of objects on fire. Typically these objects have one or more bundles of wicking, which are soaked in fuel and ignited.

Some of these disciplines are related to juggling or baton twirling (both forms of Object Manipulation), and there is also an affinity between fire dancing and rhythmic gymnastics. Fire dancing is often performed to music. Fire dancing has been a traditional part of cultures from around the world, and modern fire performance often includes visual and stylistic elements from many traditions.

Fire apparatus

The various tools used by the fire performance community borrow from a variety of sources. Many have martial sources like swords, stave’s, poi, and whips, where some seem specifically designed for the fire community. The use of these tools are limited only by the imaginations of their users. Some tools lend themselves to rhythmic swinging and twirling, others to martial arts, and others to more subtle use. Some common tools are:

1. Poi – A pair of roughly arm-length chains with handles attached to one end, and bundle of wicking material on the other.
2. Staff – A rod of wood or metal, with wicking material applied to one, or both ends. Staves are generally used in pairs or individually, though many performers are now experimenting with three or more stave’s.
3. Fire Hoop- hoop with spokes and wicking material attached.
4. Nunchaku – Nunchaku with wicking material, usually at either end.
5. Batons – A rod of wood, metal or fiberglass with wicking material applied to one, or both ends. Batons are generally used in pairs or individually, though many performers are now experimenting with three or more batons.
6. Fire Diablo – Like a regular Diablo (Chinese Yoyo) but with fire in special spots on the discs.
7. Fire Devil Sticks – Like a traditional tapered devil stick, but with Kevlar wicks on both ends of the center stick.
8. Fire Flower Sticks – Like a fire devil stick but a straight rod with chain ends and good rubber grip.
9. Fire Meteor – A long length of chain or rope with wicks, or small bowls of liquid fuel, attached to both ends.
10. Torch – A short club or torch, with a wick on one end, and swung like Indian clubs or tossed end-over-end like juggling clubs.
11. Fire Sword – either a real sword modified for fire, or one specifically built for the purpose of fire shows.
12. Fire Rope Dart – A wick, sometimes wrapped around a steel spike, at the end of a rope or chain ranging from 6-15 feet long, with a ring or other handle on the opposite end.
13. Chi ball – 2 rings or handles with a wick attached between them by a thin wire.
14. Fans – A large metal fan with one or more wicks attached to the edges.
15. Palm torches – Small torches with a flat base meant to be held upright in the palm of the hand.
16. Fire Whips – Lengths of braided aramid fiber tapered to make a bullwhip, usually with a metal handle about 12 inches long.

Fuels

Nearly all modern fire dancing apparatus rely on a liquid fuel held in the wick. There are many choices for fuels, each differing in properties. Individuals select a fuel or a blend of fuels based on safety, cost, availability, and the desirability of various characteristics like color of flame, heat of flame, and solubility. There are also geographic variances in fuels used, based on local availability, pricing and community perception, for example American fire spinners commonly use Coleman gas or 50/50 mixes whilst British fire spinners almost exclusively use paraffin oil (which the Americans call kerosene or jet fuel). Frequently, particularly in areas not fully industrialized, the fuel available is the residue from productions of more refined fuels. Traveling performers can find themselves spinning highly toxic, smoky, or carcinogenic fuels.

Iso-paraffin oil, also known as pegasol 3440 special’ is an iso-paraffin. Its MSDS lists it as Naphtha (petroleum), heavy alkylate. This is the Australian version of White Gas.

NB: Shellsol T is listed as an equivalent/replacement by both Mobil and Shell tech support (and prior to my amendment, this wiki), whilst the combustible characteristics of Shellsol T and Pegasol 3440 are very similar, the toxic properties are VERY different, Shellsol features the following hazards either not present in 3440, or present to a lesser degree; Acute Toxicity (Oral) Eye Irritation Organ Damage (Listed as through inhalation, one can imagine ingestion is a bad idea) Reproductive Toxicity Respiratory Irritation Skin Corrosion/Irritation Suspected of damaging the unborn child.

1. White gas, also known as Coleman fuel, naptha, or petroleum ether – This hot, volatile fuel is popular because it is easy to ignite, burns brightly, evaporates cleanly, and does not leave smoke or residues on wicks and bodies. However, it burns hot and quick, limiting the burn time, and potentially increasing the risk of burns. This is the preferred fuel for most indoor venues and thus a must for performers who do indoor shows. Becoming increasingly more difficult to obtain in the US due to its alternate use in Meth-amphetamine production.
2. Kersene/paraffin oil – This is a popular fuel due to its low cost and long burn times. Kerosene is an extremely generic term that covers a broad range of fuels ranging from gasoline to diesel fuel. Almost every maker of Kerosene has a wildly different purity standard with flash points varying from bottle to bottle. Some home fuel oils are nearly pure paraffins (alkanes and iso-alkanes) whereas others are almost completely benzenes, and refinery residue.
3. Lamp oil – Lamp oil is an oily, non-volatile fuel. Typically sporting the highest flash point of all the petrol distillates in liquid form, lamp oils are the most difficult to light and longest burning fuels. Many products sold as lamp oil contain a limited amount of non-alkane petrol distillates (benzene, et al), and many have colorings and scent additives that have some toxic potential. Even the purest grades of lamp oil burn quite smoky (though less irritating and toxic), and thus make it preferred for outdoor use. The soot from burned lamp oil can be difficult to wash out of clothing.
4. Alcohol fuels are usually ethanol, methanol, or isopopyl. Industrial or lab alcohol is usually ethanol with methanol, acetone or other denaturing agents added. Denatured alcohols can be up to 95% ethanol, or as little as 50%. An MSDS sheet of the mixture will indicate the exact contents.
5. Biodiesel – Biodiesel is a fuel produced by refinement or transesterification of vegetable oil (used or virgin) using methoxide composed of methanol and lye. Both KOH, potassium hydroxide and NaOH, sodium hydroxide can be used in the process but only one or the other, never both in the same batch. This produces glycerin and methyl esters, aka Biodiesel. The fuel is designed for use in diesel vehicles, but is a fairly safe and practical fuel for fire performance. Like kerosene, it is difficult to ignite by itself, and produces a dim, long-lasting flame that may smell a bit like french fries, depending on the source. It is often mixed with white gas to produce an easy-to-ignite, long-burning fuel.

Note: The flame is blue to orange, depending on methanol content, and fairly dim. However, when mixed with chemicals such as lithium chloride, copper chloride and boric acid, various colors of flame can be created. Lithium compounds produce pinks, copper compounds produce greens and blues, and boric acid produces green. Other chemicals may produce other colors, and performers often experiment with various choices. Use of chemicals like these may produce some toxic vapors, and have a tendency to destroy wicks. Due to the weak flame, price and toxicity of methanol, it is usually only used for colored flame production and in mixes.

Fire Safety

Information courtesy of Nick Woolsey @ www.playpoi.com

Check Fire Spinning Equipment

Always check your equipment before you use it. Check that hardware is not loosening, check handles, and trim any frayed wick or wire.

What to Wear

Wear tight fitting natural fiber clothing. Plastics (fleece!) not only catch fire quickly, they will also melt to your skin. Yuck. Fire test costumes before performing, or don’t wear anything =) Conceal or dampen long hair.

Never Spin Fire Alone

It’s pretty hard for you to see if your back is on fire. Make sure your Fire Safety Tech is in the ready position with a wet wool blanket or towel and that you both know where your extinguisher & first aid are!

Safety of Others

Check out your location for flammables. Be aware of local fire bans, trees close by and local regulations and permits if required. Ensure your fueling station is well marked, out of reach of your audience and well away from the area you’re fire spinning in. Your Fire Safety Tech should keep an eye on the fueling station and ensure that onlookers keep a respectable distance.

Fuelling Up

Fuel is a subjective element of fire spinning, and we suggest you experiment to find the fuel/mix that works best for you. Keep in mind that you’re breathing the fumes of your fire.

We have heard of Klean Heat and Australia Fire Water, but we have not tested them out yet.

Camp fuel/white gas is the most popular for indoor performances and cleaner burns. It has a whiter flame, is less smoky and evaporates quickly which means shorter burn times. If you have tools pre-dipped & waiting during a fire performance, triple plastic bag them to slow down evaporation.

A mix of lamp oil and kerosene is popular for outdoor fire spinning performances. Lamp oil burns a bit cleaner, Kerosene is smokier, and mixed together you’ll get a longer burn time and hotter orange flames. Lamp oil tends to spray and leaves an oily residue on the ground or stage. If you’re using it, let your fire tools burn off with slow movements for a bit so you that you don’t spray the audience. If you have fire breathers performing with lamp oil, have a plan for where they spray & clean up after they are done, or cover their stage area with a tarp that you can quickly and easily remove. This will help your fire dancers stay standing.

(Before the first use of your new fire tools, you’ll want to soak your tools in fuel for around an hour. This will allow time for your wick to become saturated with fuel. After de-virginizing your wick, soaking your tools in fuel for a minute or two is usually long enough.)

Fuel Dumps & Environmental Fuel Management

An optimum fuel station will consist of; an area roped off from the audience with easy access for you and enough room for you to dip your toys and spin off, and two containers (one Dipping Bucket, one Spin Off Bucket). A  paint can with a lid works best for the dipping bucket. Secure the lid after dipping before you light up. A spin off bucket (a bucket with a handle) will capture your excess fuel, which can be added back to your fuel bucket. This is much better than soaking the earth, your surroundings, and audience.

Let your fire tool’s excess fuel drip back into your dipping can, place your soaked wick in the bucket, hold the toy and the handle of the bucket together a couple of inches above the bottom of the bucket, swing the bucket in circles, and then take out your toys and pour the excess fuel back in your dipping bucket.

Advanced fire spinners may play with excess fuel, but we don’t suggest this until you are quite comfortable with both fire dancing and fire safety.

Extinguishing Equipment & Extending Tool Life

This summer we picked up a tip that will help extend the life of your Kevlar wicks: don’t let your tool burn out (because as your fuel runs out your wick will start to burn).

Instead, pass your flame to one of your fire spinning friends and and then before your fuel runs out extinguish your tools. Either blow your tools out from the bottom of the wick, or if blowing twice doesn’t do it, completely smother with a wet wool blanket or towel or piece of duvetyn and then immediately dip your fire tool into fuel to cool the wick down. This works best for fire spinning tools that do not have a large metal core. If your toys have red glowing metal cores wait until they have had a chance to cool down before dipping.

First Aid for Burns

Hold your burn under gently running cool water for about ten minutes to return the area to normal body temperature. Remove jewelry from the affected area, unless it is stuck to the flesh. Cover your burn with a sterile, not-stick dressing. Tea tree oil is a very good treatment for burns. Drink water, never alcohol – alcohol thins the blood and slows the body’s ability to heal itself. Seeking medical attention is never a bad idea. Pouring cold water over your dressing can alleviate pain. Do not apply lotions or moisturizers, Do not prick blisters, Do not overcool with ice, and Do not put towels or adhesive bandages directly on your burn.

First Aid for Pressure Splits

Pressure splits are another common injury and occur when your tools hit your body hard enough to cause an open wound. Apply pressure to these wound with a clean cloth or towel. Head wounds will bleed a lot so don’t be alarmed by the amount of blood that comes from a small pressure split on the head. Applying Tea tree oil can help your blood coagulate and relieve some of your pain. If you feel dizzy or nauseous seek medical attention, as you may a concussion.

In the opinion of those at West Coast Juggling, lamp oil (liquid paraffin) should be the primary fuel used with all West Coast Juggling products. White gas can be used but the danger factor and the temperature rise dramatically. A trained safety should be present at all times during the fire performance and proper safety equipment should be readily available. Always spin all access fuel off a good distance from performance area prior to igniting, and always be aware of what you are spinning fuel towards.

Have Fun & Be Safe